ABS Raftless Printing

Since I finished building the excellent heated build platform from MakerGear, I'm been trying to get raftless ABS printing working.  I decided to try out the Raftless skeinforge plugin.  This requires the latest beta version of skeinforge to work which unfortunately completely changes the whole interface and a number of settings compared to the current version.  It also means you unfortunately can't use SkeinFox on OSX.  Here's what I did to get the butterfly above to print on my bot.

First of all, your platform needs to be perfectly level.  Printing ABS without a raft is much less forgiving than when you use a raft which tends to even things out for you.  Then you want to make sure it starts the first layer pretty close so that it get's smooshed on the platform almost like you used to smoosh the first base raft layer (maybe a little less smooshed)  I found this large print bed tester object to be very helpful when getting it level and the right about of smooshiness.

I turned off the intro line in raftless plugin for the butterfly.  It kept catching when it did the perimeter and pulled it off.  Might work better with smaller objects or things with less complex perimeters.

I have kapton film on the ceramic platform and lightly sanded the kapton on top.  Since I haven't built a plug for the platform thermistor yet, I'm not using the new heated platform enabled extruder firmware, so I just plugged it's heater in port C and used the fan checkbox in replicator G to turn it on/off and the temp stickers I put on it to see the temp.  I found the best temperature to be around 90C, which happens to be about as hot as I can get it to go.  I also found it best to just leave the heater on during the whole print.  Rick suggests on his operating instructions to heat it up and then turn it off after the first few layers, however I found that to not work as well as leaving it on the whole time, but I might need to test it some more.  Hopefully I won't burn it out or something, but leaving the power on for a long time and it never gets much hotter than 95C.  One of the nice things about printing raftless on hot kapton is that you get a super smooth flat shiny finish on the bottom.  So smooth it's actually like a mirror finish.

I found that if you leave the piece on the platform, turn off the heat, and then cool it down (I used a small cpu fan), around 30C you can hear it start to snap and crackle as it detaches itself from the platform.  You can then reach in and just pick the object up!  No more scraping things off.  That was pretty awesome, however since it takes about 15 minutes to heat it back up for another print, it's not very practical.  You can however use a putty knife and carefully work it under a corner while it's hot and it still pretty easily slides off.  No real need to take the platform off to get prints out.

Update: SkeinFox 1.50 now includes the latest skeinforge and raftless plugin, so the below is not entirely necessary.

Now for the hard part, skeinforge.  I downloaded skeinforge-tools from TeamTeamUSA's github and followed the installation instructions in the readme (copy the raftless.py to right place, edit extrusion.py, etc).  Before I ran it, I backed up my ~/.skeinforge directory and then deleted it so I could start with fresh settings.  Unfortunately, these default settings I'm guessing are optimized for a RepRap Darwin or something and not a MakerBot.  I made the following changes from the defaults:

Carve
Layer Thickness (mm): 0.375

Chamber
Activate Chamber: False
(right now I'm controlling my platform with the fan port and haven't enabled control with the second thermistor or new extruder firmware)

Comb
Activate Comb False

Cool
Activate Cool False

Fill
Grid Rectangular True
Line False
Infill Perimeter Overlap (ratio): 0.2
Infill Solidity (ratio): 0.15

Raft
Activate Raft False
Base Layers (integer): 0
Interface Layers (integer): 0
Temperature Change Time Before First Layer (seconds): 0.0
Temperature of Base (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Interface (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Shape First Layer Infill (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Shape Next Layers (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Support Layers (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Supported Layers (Celcius): 220.0
(I had changed base and interface to 0 before I got the raftless plugin, probably not necessary since we're turning the raft plugin off anyway, also I'm not entirely clear what the proper way to set the extrusion temp is with the raft plugin turned off when there is no temp setting in the raftless plugin, I guess it's up to you to set the temp before you print or in the start.gcode file)

Raftless
Activate Raftless True
1st Perimeter Feed Rate over Feed Rate (ratio): 0.93
1st Perimeter Flow Rate over Flow Rate (ratio): 0.68
Add Extrusion Intro: False
(the default is .5 feed rate, but that was way too slow and no matter what I set the flow rate to it just kept extruding way too much.  This might be due to the fact that I use a high feed and flow rate by default.  These settings seemed to work the best for me.)

Speed
Feed Rate (mm/s): 28.0
Flow Rate Setting (float): 255.0
Orbital Feed Rate over Operating Feed Rate (ratio): 1.0
Travel Feed Rate (mm/s): 55.0

They also changed the location and name of the start and end files.  They're now at skeinforge_tools/alterations and are called start.gcode and end.gcode.  Here is what I use.  I like to start and end with Z at 50 so that it's out of the way and less likely to crash into anything you make at the end.

start.gcode:

(***************FIRST SET Z TO 50*********************)

(homing routing)
M104 S220 T0 (Temperature to 220 celsius)
G21 (Metric FTW)
G90 (Absolute Positioning)
G92 X0 Y0 Z50 (You are now at 0,0,50)
(You have failed me for the last time, MakerBot)
M108 S255 (Extruder speed = max)
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)
G04 P5000 (Wait 5 seconds)
M101 (Extruder on, forward)
G04 P5000 (Wait 5 seconds)
M103 (Extruder off)
M01 (The heater is warming up and will do a test extrusion.  Click yes after you have cleared the nozzle of the extrusion.)
G0 Z0 (Go back to zero.)
(end of start.)

end.gcode:

(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S220

G90
G1 X0 Y0 Z50 F3300.0

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Comments (5)

Feb 28, 2010
Rick Pollack said...
This is great stuff Tony!! Have you tried running at a higher feedrate? I've had good results up to 45mm/s. Also, in your end code, why not switch to relative mode (G91) and have it just go up 5 or 10...rather than using an absolute value of 50.
Feb 28, 2010
Tony Buser said...
Yeah, I'm still trying to fully understand skeinforge. Most settings being fractions of other settings drives me crazy. I haven't played much with increasing speed and have been more worried about accuracy.

I've found starting and ending at a high Z value is easiest. Especially when doing a lot of prints one after another. I do wish it was smart enough not to ever dive the nozzle into a finished print, since there's never a reason to print up to Z 25 and then immediately move to Z 20. :)

Mar 01, 2010
Dave M. said...
Tony, have you found that using the temp stickers causes issues in Z height when printing large parts on top of them? From your results, my guess is "no", but I wanted to ask anyway. This looks great!!!
Mar 01, 2010
Tony Buser said...
I haven't had much of a problem with adhesion over the stickers, but it does create an ugly indentation on the bottom of otherwise perfectly smooth objects.  You can see the result here:


Once I get the thermistor hooked up, I'm going to get rid of the stickers.  They're great to have, but I'd rather have a totally smooth platform.

Mar 01, 2010
Tony Buser said...
I noticed the MakerBot wiki has an excellent end.gcode that moves up 10 relative, prompts you to remove the object, then moves to an absolute value:

http://wiki.makerbot.com/modify-start-and-end-code

That's a great idea, however I do a lot of printing via the SD card and unfortunately when printing from the card, it doesn't support the prompt code. (M01)

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